Many tribal and reservation communities are in a food desert. Where a shortage of supermarkets and grocery stores means limited access to affordable fresh and nutritious food, residents must rely on unhealthy, higher priced options at convenience stores. Often combined with gas stations, car washes, and ATMS, these stores are in easily accessible locations, open around-the-clock — and typically the only source of food for miles. Other challenges in tribal communities and across the country include food waste, climate change, supplier competition, dollar stores replacing big grocers, ultra-processed foods, and declining agricultural production.
One national leader working to transform the food system is Marion Nestle. An author, educator, and nutrition policy expert, Nestle (no relation to the company) has taken a stand at the intersection of nutrition and politics. In a recent interview on PBS, she discussed SNAP benefits and the fragile state of the U.S. economy. “We have 42 million people in this country – 16 million of them children – who can’t rely on a consistent source of food from day to day and have to depend on a government program that provides them with benefits that cover only part of their food needs,” Nestle said.
Also advocating for a better food system, Indigenous authors, bloggers, and vloggers are working to illuminate and address food disparities with a return to Indigenous food systems. People like Sean Sherman (Oglala Lakota), Mariah Gladstone (Blackfeet), Ben Jacobs (Osage), and Crystal Wahpepah (Kickapoo) are among hundreds of food advocates, teachers, and innovators from across Turtle Island who are building Indigenous food businesses and networks, food sovereignty initiatives, and food circles and pantries. They are creating food education networks using traditional Indigenous knowledge and systems that are thousands of years old. They are helping families improve their eating habits and a return to traditional foodways in what is described as a “decolonized” diet.
These modern “food warriors” are focused on increased food determination, production, bison rematriation, and harvests with a goal of establishing relationships with mainstream growers, buyers, and suppliers. Tackling these challenges takes time and r
equires vision to develop strategies that will effect system-based change, but there’s no doubt that a culture-based Indigenous food renaissance is underway.
Proponents advance the reclamation of Native foodways along with educational efforts and nation building for the return of healthful Indigenous foodways. The results have been phenomenal, signaling a transformation in priorities, access, resources, and approaches to food and nutrition.
The relationship between people and food is deeply intertwined. Indigenous people have long supported each other in the sacred growth, preparation, and relationship with food. Many Indigenous ceremonies involve food, acknowledging seasonal cycles and the reciprocal practices of sharing and honoring the harvests from land and water required for our survival.
For millennia our ancestors nourished themselves and their communities through ethical and sustainable practices. We still share and trade food and other resources with our neighbors, as evidenced by the Flandreau Santee Sioux Tribe and the Tulalip Nation. Through their food exchange, shipments of salmon are on the way to South Dakota and bison is heading west to Washington — food sources highly valued in these two communities. This historic exchange is an effort to restore access to traditional, naturally produced foods that will strengthen tribal sovereignty and honor nation-to-nation trade. This model partnership carries a sense of continuity, respect and progress all at once.
During this season of harvest and giving thanks, it falls on us to practice what our ancestors taught us in the sharing of what we have with others. It could be food, or simply a conversation or access to information, ideas, or a story that honors traditional foodways. For example, AISES is uplifting traditional approaches to food by sharing recipes with its members during Native American Heritage Month to promote learning about different ingredients.
Ben Jacobs, owner of Tocabe in Denver, Colo., has been a strong advocate for elevating Native food traditions. Jacob’s demonstration video developed for AISES during National Native American Heritage Month blends food, culture, and education in a way that celebrates Indigenous heritage. Check it out here!
Indigenous people play a role in the return to traditional foodways. We can impact what is eaten tomorrow. We can join others who are interested in these issues by supporting a tribal author, restaurant, caterer, food truck or talk with an elder to gain their perspectives about traditional foods and their growth and harvest. What wisdom would you want to learn from your elders about traditional food?
It falls upon us all to preserve the wisdom that ensures cultural continuity, community identity, offers healthier, sustainable alternatives and teaches us to see that food is a connection to the land, ancestors, and future generations. Food is not just about eating – it’s about belonging.